DISCOVERING THE LEPINI MOUNTAINS

During the reaping season, in the olden days when most land belonged to feudal lords and the clergy, women had the task of patiently gathering up fallen ears of wheat. The long days they spent in the fields were broken up only by lunch. The first to leave home at dawn were the husbands; the women left later on, after preparing the day’s food. The dinner eaten under the trees was not a frugal one. There was always a first course, and often a second and a side dish too. Thanks to the abundant waters of the Sacco River, harvests were never lean and the peasants, after delivering the owner’s part of the wheat, managed to save enough to last for the whole year. The Gleaners’ Road traverses four small towns perched on the northeastern slopes of the district; all look down over the Sacco Valley, the largest breadbasket in the Lepine Mountains.

Artena, the wheat town

Much of Artena’s history is tied to the production of wheat. Locally grown wheat was ground in a mill located along the Sacco River near Paliano. The mill was part of a 13th-century castle consisting of a single square tower. The flour was used to prepare pasta, bread and cakes. Typical dishes: potato gnocchi, long gnocchi,pappardelle, tagliolini, "guitar-string" spaghetti with various sauces, sagna a patacca, roast mutton morsels, mutton and goat meat. Typical products: bread, mutton and goat meat, sheep and goat cheeses, olive oil. Naturalistic routes: Excursions to the ancient Volscian city of Piano della Civita. Sights: The Borghese palace, granary, Governor's palace, Franciscan monastery, church of the Holy Cross, sanctuary of the Madonna of Grace.

Segni, the “Marrone”

Chestnut Town The inhabitants of Segni were among the first to replace the native chestnut woods with the more highly-prized "marrone" chestnut trees. Segni accounts for 7% of the "marroni" produced in Italy and 4.9% of the world-wide harvest. Every year at the beginning of autumn Segni holds a "marrone" festival. Typical dishes: Fregnaquanti, lo pa’ sotto. Typical products: "Marrone" chestnuts, egg noodles with various sauces, bread, copete (anise cookies), giglietti (lily-shaped cookies), ciambelle (ring-shaped cookies). Naturalistic routes: Excursions to Mt. Lupone. Sights: The archaeological area and the Archaeology Museum.

Montelanico, the Home-Made- Pasta Town

Many local women still make pasta at home. Besides the classical tagliolini, fettuccine and pappardelle, and the typical long gnocchi, they still prepare “priest’s ears.” Each piece of dough is hollowed out with the rounded point of a knife, then the ends are folded together to form an ear shape. The pasta is served with various kinds of sauces. Typical dishes: Roast lamb, kid and suckling pig with truffles; tagliolini, fettuccine, pappardelle, long gnocchi and priest’s ears, served with various sauces; wine-flavored ciambelle, giglietti, santamarta, pangiallo, castagnole (fried doughballs). Typical products: Chestnuts, mutton, pork, goat meat. Naturalistic routes: Excursion to Montelanico Field, the Rapiglio spring, Mt. Lupone, the ruins of the Castle of Collemezzo and Lake Volubro. Sights: The Putti Fountain in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, the church of St. Peter Apostle.

Gorga, the Shepherding Town

Gorga’s vast mountainous territory, covered with woods and broad pastures, has always enabled its residents to make a living by shepherding. The shepherders still working today continue to raise their animals in the wild or semi-wild state. Goats and sheep feed on uncontaminated forage, and their meat maintains the oldtime fragrance and taste. Typical dishes: Gnocchi served with spareribs and sausages, porcini or “galletti” mushrooms; polenta with various sauces; talini and beans; lamb giblets. Typical products: Mutton, pork, goat meat; sheep and goat cheeses; olive oil, truffles, mantovana, anise cookies, panicella. Naturalistic routes: Excursion to the Canai spring. Sights: The Shepherdess Fountain, the churches of St. Michael Archangel, St. Mary of the Assumption, and the Holy Virgin of the Rosary.

Carpineto Romano, the Fish Town

As early as the 17th century, on Holy Thursday the local fraternal orders dined on fish. Anchovies, herring, sargos, cod and sardines dominated Carpineto’s tables. An 1821 document sent by the gonfalonier of Terracina to his counterpart in Carpineto confirms that fishing was one of the oldest of the local industries. Typical dishes: Fettucine with porcini or “prignoli” mushrooms, polenta served in all ways, mutton in jo callaro style; cacciatore-style roast lamb; sausages and pork chops; seafood (fisherman’s risotto, spaghetti with clams, baked or batter-fried anchovies). Typical products: Mutton, pork and goat meat; sheep and goat cheese; truffles; ciambelle, pangiallo, ‘ntortalicchi. Naturalistic routes: Excursions to Pian della Faggeta, Mt. Capreo and Mt. Semprevisa. Sights: Permanent show of a collection of curios of Pope Leo XIII at the church of St. Nicolas; the Volsci Museum at Palazzo Aldobrandini, the church of St. Leo the Great, the collegiate church, the church of St. Michael Archangel, the sanctuary of St. Mary, the monasteries of St. Augustine and St. Peter.

Cori, the wine Town

The first poets to sing the praises of Cori’s wines were Ovid and Martial. In most cases, the wine is made from local grape varieties: Nero Buono, Arciprete Bianco, Bellone, Greco Giallo and Greco Moro. Besides these, Cori’s farmers have always grown Candia Malvasia, Tuscan Trebbiano, Cesanese and Abruzzo Montepulciano. Nearly all Cori wines are certified DOC (controlled provenience) or IGT (typical geographic indication). Typical dishes: Scafata, pizza frella, cupolotti, bean-and-chickpea soup, fettucine with mushrooms, roast lamb and game, almond cookies, ciambelle and ciambelloni, egg cookies, tozzetti, wine-flavored ciambelline. Typical products: Wine, olives, olive oil, vegetables preserved in olive oil, cooked ham, porchetta. Naturalistic routes: Excursion to Mt. Lupone and the Giulianello lake. Sights: Vestiges of the temple of Hercules, the Cyclopean walls, the churches of St. Mary and St. Oliva, the Soccorso sanctuary.